Lovey Rabbit - A Valentine's Pattern

General Info

  • Level: Advanced Beginner / Intermediate

  • Crochet Hook: 4mm

  • Yarn: Himalaya Seta Lux (Weight 4 yarn)

  • Gauge: Gauge is not essential to this project

 

Abbreviations

  • MC – Magic Circle

  • St(s) – Stitch(es)

  • Sl st - Slip Stitch

  • SC – Single Crochet

  • INC - Increase

  • DEC - Decrease

  • (…) – Instructions in brackets followed by a multiplier indicate how many times to repeat the instructions in the brackets.

  • SM – Stitch Market

 

Materials needed

  • Crochet Hook (I used a 4mm hook for medium weight yarn. You can use a smaller hook if you are using lighter yarn and/or would like your project to be smaller, or else a bigger hook if you are using bulkier yarn and/or would like your project to be larger)

  • Yarn ( You can use any yarn type you wish)

  • Yarn Needle

  • Scissors

  • Safety Eyes & Safety Note (optional - If you are looking to gift this to a young child (under 5), safety eyes and safety nose could pose a choking hazard. Embroidering would be recommended in these cases)

  • Scissors

 

Recommendations

  • Read through the pattern in its entirety prior to attempting the piece, this will assist you in understanding how Lovey is worked from start to end.

  • Make sure you are familiar with all the stitches and methods mentioned in the abbreviations.

  • Lovey is worked starting from his head, neck, body, legs and finally the arms. There are no sewing requirements for the body itself, which make this a slightly trickier pattern.

  • Stitch Markers are your friends. No matter how good you are at counting stitches and remembering your rows, use them wisely ;)

 

Part 1 - Head

In a MC, work 6 SC, then:

  • Round 1: INC x6 (12)

  • Round 2: (1SC, INC) x6 (18)

  • Round 3: 1SC, INC, (2SC, INC) x5 (24)

  • Round 4: (3SC, INC) x6 (30)

  • Round 5 to Round 9: 30 SC

If you are using safety eyes and nose, this is the time to attach them. Attach the eyes between round 7 and 8, 5 stitches apart, and attach the nose between round 8 and 9, in between the eyes. If you will be embroidering the eyes and nose, you can either do so now, or once the body has been completed. In either case you should start stuffing at this point (after round 9), and keep adding stuffing after each round

  • Round 10: (3SC, DEC) x6 (24)

  • Round 11: (2SC, DEC) x6 (18)

  • Round 12: (1SC, DEC) x6 (12)

  • Round 13: DEC x6 (6) 

  • Round 14: 6SC (6) - This round will be the neck of the rabbit

  • Round 15: INC x6 (12)

  • Round 16: 12 SC (12)

  • Round 17: (SC, INC) x6 (18)

  • Round 18: 18 SC

  • Round 19: INC x18 (36) - At the end of this round, we will work the body to separate the armholes from the rest of the body.

Separating the Arms

  • Fold your work so that it takes a triangle shape. Make sure the face is looking right at you. The last stitch from round 19 should be on either corner of the triangle. Mark each corner stitch with a SM (see diagrams 1 and 2)

  • Work 15 SC, you should be left with 3 sts between the 15th SC and the SM you added in step 1. 

  • Work 1 SC (16th SC in diagram) in the st directly opposite from where your last worked stitch is (See diagram 3). This will create a separate 6 stitch section, which we will later use to work the arm. 

  • Work another 11 SC, you should once again be left with 3 sts between the last st you worked (27th SC) and the SM you added in step 1. 

  • Sl St in the st directly opposite. This will create the second separate 6 st section, which we will later use to work the second arm. (See diagram 4)

  • Once you have completed the above steps, your work should be looking similar to diagram 5. 

Part 2 - Body

  • Round 20: 24 SC (24)

  • Round 21: (3SC, INC) x6 (30)

  • Round 22: (4SC, INC) x6 (36)

  • Round 23 to Round 27: Sc 36 - After this round, start stuffing, and add more stuffing after each next round. 

  • Round 28: (4SC, DEC) x6 (30)

  • Round 29: (3SC, DEC) x6 (24) - At the end of this round, we will separate the body to form the two holes for the legs

Separating the Legs

  • Fold your work in half again. Make sure that the face still looking at you. The last stitch worked or round 29 should be at one corner. Mark the st found at each corner 

  • The last round worked had 24 sts, as such we will need to divide the last round to have 12 sts for each leg. 

  • From the last st worked, work 6 SC then work the 7th SC in the st directly opposite (similar to how we did the armholes). This will create the first hole which we will use to work the first leg. MARK THIS STITCH AND LEAVE THE STITCH THERE

  • Work another 5 SC, which will conclude the first round of the first leg. 

Note: You may see that the first completed leg hole looks smaller than the unworked section. If this is the case, not to worry, it actually isn't and it will adjust once you work the second leg :) 

Part 3 - Leg 1

​Continuing from your last worked st

  • Round 1 to Round 4: 12 SC (12)

  • Round 5: DEC x6 (6)

  • Round 6: 6 SC

Fasten off and leave a tail around 2/3 inches long. Thread the yarn in your yarn needle and go through each stitch in the last round. Once that is done, pull the yarn to close the leg. Fasten and weave in the tail. Once you do this, from the open hole (which will become the second leg), add stuffing to the first leg.

 

Part 3 - Leg 2

Attach the yarn on stitch 7 at the base of the first leg, where you added a SM earlier on. Make sure the tail sits inside the hole. The tail should be slightly long as we will use it to close off the gap that will be created once the second leg is worked. 

 

Round 1 to Round 5: 12 SC (12) - Start adding stuffing here

Round 6: DEC x6 (6) - Add some more stuffing for the end of the leg, you will probably need the help of your hook or something thin to push the stuffing in.

Round 7: 6 SC 

 

Fasten off and leave a tail around 2/3 inches long. Thread the yarn in your yarn needle and go through each stitch in the last round. Once that is done, pull the yarn to close the leg. Fasten and weave in the tail.

 

At this point, the body has been completed. The next step will be to work the arms.

 

Part 4 - Arms (Repeat for each arm)

Attach the yarn with a sl st in such a way that the starting tail will be on the under side of the arm. 

  • Round 1 : Pick up 6 stitches by working 6 SC. You should be able to see the 6 stitches you left when working the body, but if you cannot, that's ok. Simply work 6 SC around. 

  • Round 2 to Round 6: 6 SC. Fasten off and leave a long tail. Thread the yarn in your yarn needle and go through each stitch in the last round. Once that is done, pull the yarn to close the arm. Fasten of again and leave the remaining tail to secure to heart.

Part 5 - Ears (Make 2)

In a MC, work 3 SC then:

  • Round 1: Inc x 3 (6)

  • Round 2: (SC, INC) x3 (9)

  • Round 3: SC 9

  • Round 4: (2SC, INC) x 3 (12)

The next 3 rounds will see a colour change between the main colour off the body and the inner ear colour. If you are working the ears in one colour, simply work 12 SC for all three rounds.

  • Round 5 to Round 7:

    • 2 SC in main colour

    • 4 SC in secondary colour

    • 6 SC in main colour.

    • Tip: to change colour effectively, change colour at the second yarn over/pull through of 2nd SC and 6th SC of each round.

  • Round 8: 12 SC in main colour

  • Round 9: Fold the ear in half, with the last stitch worked on round 8 at the corner and the secondary colour part in the middle. Then work 6 SC through both sides to close off the ear. Fasten off and leave a tail to sew onto the head later.

Part 6 - Heart

There are many heart patterns out there, so if you already know how to crochet a heart feel free to do it your way, the below is how I did the heart to the size of the rabbit:

 

In a MC,  work 6 SC. For the next rounds, make sure you are using a SM to mark the first st of each round: 

  • Round 1: Inc x6 (12) 

  • Round 2 to Round 4: SC 12 (12). Fasten off and leave a tail a few inches long.

  • Repeat Round 1 to Round 4 again, and at the end of round 4 do not fasten off. We will now join both sections. 

  • Round 5: 24 SC (The 1st SC will be worked on the side that was fastened off, where the SM is. Then, keep working in the round until you reach the end of the first section. The 13th SC will then be worked on the second side, where the SM is. After that, work another 11 SC in total. You should have 24 stitches in total. )

  • Round 6: 24 SC

Before continuing, you will now use the tail from the fastened off side to close off the gap created between the two parts. Simply go in and out of stitches a few times, fasten off and leave the tail. After this, stuff both sides and keep stuffing from here on after each round.

  • Round 7: (2 SC, dec) x 6 (18)

  • Round 8: SC 18

  • Round 9: (SC, DEC) x6 (12)

  • Round 10: SC 12

  • Round 11: Dec x 6 (6). Fasten off. Leave a tail to close off gap. Thread the yarn in your yarn needle and go through each stitch in the last round. Once that is done, pull the yarn to close the bottom of the heart. Fasten and weave in the tail.

 

Assembly - Attaching the Ears

I have attached the ears between round 5 and round 6 of the head. Thread the tail on your yarn needle and then use your preferred sewing method to attach each ear on either side of the head. Once done, weave in the end by sticking it inside the head a few times then cut off any extra.

Assembly - Attaching the heart

I have attached the heart to the arms at an angle. To do so, I used the tail for each arm. Thread the first tail on your yarn needle and go through any stitch on the heart where you want the first arm to rest. Bring out the needle through the back middle part of the heart, and then straight through the main body, this will attach the back of the heart to the main body, giving it more stability.

 

Do the same thing for the other arm, bringing out the tail straight through the main body, in the same place the first tail was brought out. Tie the two ends together, and then thread both tails on the yarn needle. Go through the exact same hole you came out of and out through any other hole and pull lightly until the knot goes inside the body and thus no longer visible. Cut the extra tail off.

 

And that’s it, you’re done!

Additional Features 

I have added a scarf to my rabbit. This was simply worked in flat HDC stitches. You can choose to do this or not. I also added some blush to the face to give it more character, again it comes down to personal preference with the additional features 😊

 

If you have any issues, or cannot understand a part of the pattern, please feel free to send us a message, we will get back to you as soon as possible, and in any case within 24 hours.  

 

I hope you enjoyed making this little rabbit, and I would really appreciate it if you shared your finished product on your social media by tagging Bella’s Huggables on Facebook or @bellashuggables on Instagram. And, if you aren’t yet following us, please feel free to follow us on both platforms for new pattern releases and other projects! Thank you!

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